Published by Andrew on 15 October 2018
Lyn and Nicky stayed at Hotel ibis Périgueux Centre after riding from Thiviers to Perigueux at the end of their La Flow Velo bike ride. Here is Lyn’s review.
- Suggested route for Thiviers to Perigueux
- Cycling hotel in Thiviers
- Supported bike rides in the Dordogne
- Bike hire in the Dordogne
Regular readers will know that I usually champion locally owned and run B&Bs and hotels. This is especially the case in smaller towns – and especially on key cycle routes where specialist cycling knowledge is such a bonus.
However finding good, locally run hotels in major cities can be more challenging, as the quality and range can vary so much, and many city hotels rarely prioritise cyclists. That’s why I got so excited when I found this one in Paris.
By contrast, chain hotels are by their very nature the same wherever you go. And when you're on a long ride it’s sometimes nice to know what you’ll be getting at the end of it. Which is, for me, what sometimes makes a good mid-range city hotel.
The Hotel ibis Périgueux Centre was in many ways like any other Ibis hotel. But this version of the tried and tested blueprint was not, in the end, without its surprises.
5 things we liked
1. Bike parking.
We’d spent a night previously on our La Flow Velo trip in Angouleme, where we’d argued with hotel reception staff about safe cycle storage. (A bike rack in a shared carpark was not safe, I said, before eventually haggling space in a meeting room). So we arrived – tired, wet and cold – at the Ibis in Perigueux hoping for a more pleasant welcome. And that’s exactly what we got. We were led to a dedicated storage cellar under the hotel, where we stowed our bikes before the room was locked and the key whisked off to reception. Happy bikes make for happy guests.
The hotel overlooks the river and backs on to the city’s beautiful cathedral precinct. It’s perfectly located in the city centre, making an ideal base for exploring. It’s also easy to find as you ride into town, being adjacent to the river towpath.
Again, there are no surprises with Ibis breakfasts. Yes, they do tend to be all the same but I’m happy to eat all that sameness every time I stay at one. Pancakes, hot water machine for DIY boiled eggs, bottomless cups of coffee, meats, cereals, breads with seeds and grains. Oh, and little Madeleines and other treats perfect for stashing in panniers for morning tea.
Free and fast wifi. Wifi is a recurring theme for me. It should be like electricity or water, or fresh air, and be included in the price. There’s nothing worse than dragging a laptop half way across France in your pannier and not being able to use it. Elsewhere, the room was clean, the beds comfortable, the water hot, the lounge areas spacious and welcoming, and the staff friendly.
5. Bike routes.
Perigueux itself is easily navigable on bike, with signposted paths leading into the centre and along the river front. We also made it to the train station easily using signage. It felt safe and easy to ride here. Perigueux is the administrative capital of the Dordogne. All roads – and, increasingly, bike routes – lead here. We followed this route from Thiviers after riding La Flow Velo. From Perigueux it’s possible to link to the signposted V90 path, a veloroute that ends near Montpon and will eventually link to Libourne for better access to the Medoc and Bordeaux. Perigueux is on the direct local TER train line to Bordeaux (just buy your ticket and walk your bike on), and also linked to Paris via Limoges (where there is also an airport). See here for bike/train info.
The Perigueux area is well worth exploring by bike, with journeys to Thiviers, Excideuil and further north into the Perigord Limousin national park. Here, you’ll find quieter, lesser explored backroad routes that can make a peaceful change from the more popular routes of the Sarlat-Lascaux and Vezere Valley river trail.
More routes and accommodation in the Dordogne